The roar. An hour before sunrise we arrive. Cant sleep. Surfline upgraded its wave size forecast overnight. But we can’t see anything, walls of foam. The horizon past the point disappearing as something moves, then stalls, crashes, adrenaline starting to pump.
620 we can’t wait any longer. Snoopy, wave queen, and me paddle, closely followed by Brett, Ali, Trish and Jo with Kath and Di loitering further back. About 1 second later the rip has pulled us 100m past the point, way out wide.
Then Stevie Ray Vaughan kicks in, live in concert at Montreux, and we start heaving in the mosh pit. 50 minutes of chaos and rhythm, and sweet guitar licks. Naked and sweaty and fully present. Screaming left handers from the back to the ramp. Hollering as we entered the goldilocks zone. Sweet lord I have found religion. Practicing our airborne falling, choir singing, guzzling water, swigging life from the jar.
Then the grommets arrived, 100 strong. My 11th wave, going right I tangled with one. Leg rope around my throat and back and leg, rolled like a mummy, 2 meters held down under. Sophia sees me on exit and comments that I’ve been whipped. Glorious I don’t care.
Coffee never tasted so sweet, exhaustion. In the sauna now, trying to unlock the calf, sore but still high.
Caroline’s pitch report
Friday the 13th arrived with full cinematic drama 🎬
Grey skies brooding overhead, five-foot waves marching in, and plenty of chitter chatter along the wall – to swim or not to swim, that is the question 💀
Dx answered the question the only way they know how – SEND IT⚡️
FFF followed suit – a full field of fine aquatic specimens charging bravely into the briny arena 🌊
The current was a freight-train from north to south 🚂
For the final wave, Punter and I employed elite tactical brilliance 😌
We lounged in the shallows and let the express current slingshot us back to the corner – travelling faster than the fastest swimmer. Efficiency level: god tier.
The General delivered career advice for aspiring surf lifesavers 📚
Step one: learn how to spell. The heroics come later.
Gommo delivered a passionate talk on the virtues of Olympic silver medals 🥈and coming second.
Some workplace clarity was provided by Doctor Shanny 🩺
Men become doctors and lawyers… while women become female doctors and female lawyers. Progress, apparently, is a work in progress.
Meanwhile Rusty returned to shore with a wild ocean tales 😈
After a run-in with a surfer’s leg rope that sounded suspiciously like nautical bondage, he declared the sea wild, the surfers wilder… 😉 what happens past the break, stays past the break.
Love from cobloggers,
Baby Spice 💕 & Rusty the Fish 🐠 with special guest appearance by Lisha with her roaming camera and smiles.