A ripping good swim – eating foam, some fast and furious action and the pursuit of happiness.

6.12am. The beach is dark and empty. Magic Seaweed predicts 6-9 foot so that roaring noise is probably gigantic surf. Low tide 7.32am so sandbanks will be kicking up sharp, dumpy waves. Ran into 2 die-hards, Geoff a Hawaiian ironman veteran and his mate. Talk of big sets out at the point, maybe swimming on the other side.

Look at me! The glow in the dark headpiece of choice for night swims

It’s still dark, I can’t see anything but some FFF bums wading out. Water surging everywhere. Powerful rip hard right, and a horizontal surge heading north off the left of the sandbank. A distant ship smoke on the horizon.

Strapped on the Go Pro today. Plan was to park in the middle and capture the Drinks Express coming back & some wave action. Strong current from the middle back to the point. We actually drifted back watching the sunrise. Quite romantic. The sun had been racing around to come up behind us again. We could hear laughter as we floated towards the waves, the Fast Furious Five were having a lot of fun.

Chippo sacrificed a set of googles to the god Triton, a mighty half fish half man emerged blowing a conch shell and the overhead sets rolled through. A magnificent wave caught Chippo and I saw him being mobbed by the Fast & Furious girls getting his autograph in the shallows moments later.

On the other hand I ate foam in the pursuit of happiness and a good Go Pro surf shot. The sunrise was still persisting. Some FFF stragglers around me.

Exited with Royalty, #6 also known as Simon, who had been trying out Jonno’s flippers. No waves caught, you’ve got to give back Simon, the wave god demands his price, one flipper would have done it.

On this day a year ago, our world turned upside down. Sipped coffee with Roger and Lainey. Roger was escaping Cuba 365 days ago heading home after a successful stint designing a commemorative tea towel collection for Fidel (or maybe travelling I made that up). Lainey asking whose bum we captured today. Well we have some rippers for you today Lainey. Here you go…

Thanks for the swim Team. Enjoy your day.

Chippo Ginsberg and Rusty the Fish